Why a Professional Inspection Matters
A is your clearest look at the true condition of a property before you're financially committed. A licensed inspector spends two to four hours examining the home's structure, systems, and safety features, then delivers a detailed written report with photos. What you learn can help you renegotiate, request repairs, budget for future costs — or walk away.
Even in a hot market
Skipping the inspection contingency to win a bidding war is risky. If you must compete aggressively, consider a pre-offer inspection (if the seller allows it) or shortening the inspection timeline rather than eliminating it entirely.
Choosing a Qualified Inspector
Not all inspectors are equal. Your agent can recommend inspectors they work with regularly — but you are always free to choose your own, and doing independent research helps ensure you get an unbiased evaluation.
State licensing or certification
Requirements vary by state. Confirm your inspector meets the minimum credential standard where you're buying.
Professional membership
Look for inspectors who are members of ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) or InterNACHI — both require ongoing education and hold members to ethical standards.
Several years of experience
Newer inspectors may be thorough, but experienced ones have seen more edge cases. Look for strong, detailed online reviews that describe how inspectors handle problem homes.
Sample report quality
Ask to see a sample report before hiring. Good reports include photos, clear explanations of each finding's severity, and estimates of remaining useful life for major systems.
What's Covered (and What Isn't)
A standard is a visual, non-invasive evaluation. Inspectors won't cut into walls, move heavy furniture, or access areas that are unsafe or inaccessible. This means certain problems can occasionally go undetected.
Typically included
- Roof, attic, and visible insulation
- Foundation, structure, and drainage
- Electrical panel and visible wiring
- Plumbing fixtures, water heater, pipes
- HVAC system function and approximate age
- Windows, doors, and major appliances
Usually NOT included
- Pest and termite inspection
- Sewer line camera inspection
- Mold, radon, or asbestos testing
- Pool, well, or septic system
- Chimneys (beyond basic visible check)
- Underground oil tanks
Pro tip
Specialty inspections fill the gaps that a general inspection leaves. See the Specialty Inspections section below for guidance on when to add them.
Attending the Inspection
Whenever possible, attend the inspection in person — ideally near the end, when the inspector can walk you through the home and explain findings verbally. A written report alone can't capture the context of standing in a crawlspace or seeing a rusted panel with your own eyes.
- Ask the inspector to show you the main shutoffs — water, gas, and electrical panel — even if the report covers them
- Ask about the remaining lifespan of major systems: “How many years does this roof have left?”
- Take your own photos and short videos of anything that concerns you — homes blur together after multiple showings
- Don't be afraid to ask “is this a big deal?” — good inspectors will give you honest context
- Avoid crowding the inspector with too many people — your agent and you is typically the right number
Pro tip: take videos
Walk through room by room narrating your impressions out loud. After three or four showings and an inspection, details blur together. Your recording will be the tiebreaker when you're evaluating what to negotiate.
Reading the Inspection Report
Reports typically rank findings by severity. It's normal for a well-maintained home to generate a multi-page report with dozens of line items. The goal isn't a perfect home — it's understanding what you're buying and surfacing the issues that actually matter.
Safety hazard
Act nowConditions that pose a risk to the occupants' health or safety. These require immediate attention regardless of negotiation outcome.
Major defect
NegotiateSignificant structural or mechanical issues — foundation cracks, failing HVAC, aged roof — that could be expensive to repair.
Maintenance item
Budget for itNormal wear and deferred upkeep — caulking, minor leaks, weatherstripping. Useful for budgeting but rarely worth negotiating.
Cosmetic / informational
Awareness onlyAppearance issues or general observations that don't affect function, safety, or systems. These are good to know but not worth fighting over.
Negotiating Repairs and Credits
After reviewing the report with your agent, you typically have four options. The right move depends on the severity of the issues, the market conditions, and how much you want the home.
Request repairs
Ask the seller to fix specific issues before closing. The risk: you don't control the quality of their contractor's work. Prefer credits for anything structural.
Request a credit
Ask the seller to reduce the purchase price or contribute to closing costs instead of making repairs. This gives you control over the fix. Often the better choice.
Renegotiate price
Propose a lower purchase price to offset your estimated cost to repair items yourself after closing. Works best in slower markets where the seller has leverage concerns.
Walk away
If issues are severe, the seller is unresponsive, and your inspection contingency is active, you can terminate and recover your earnest money.
Focus on safety and major systems
Sellers are far more likely to negotiate seriously on a short, focused list. Request repairs or credits for safety hazards and major systems (roof, HVAC, electrical, plumbing). Leave cosmetic items and maintenance tasks off the list — they dilute your leverage and frustrate sellers.
Specialty Inspections to Consider
Depending on the home's age, location, and features, consider adding one or more specialty inspections. These are separate from the general inspection and involve different professionals.
Sewer scope
Especially important for homes over 20 years old or near mature trees whose roots can infiltrate pipes.
Termite / pest inspection
Often required by lenders in certain regions. Detects wood-destroying organisms before you close.
Radon test
Recommended in many parts of the country regardless of home age. Radon is odorless, colorless, and harmful.
Mold inspection
Worth adding if the general inspection finds evidence of past water damage or if the home has been vacant.
Chimney inspection
Essential before first use, especially if the home has a wood-burning fireplace that hasn't been serviced recently.
Well & septic inspection
Essential for any home not connected to municipal water and sewer. Well water quality testing is separate from system function.
What Should You Do Next?
Once inspection negotiations are resolved, the next major milestone is the appraisal — ordered by your lender to confirm the home's value. If the appraisal comes in low, you'll need to know your options.
Understand the appraisal process
Days 10–25 of contract · Ordered by your lender
Your lender will independently value the property. If the appraisal comes in below your agreed purchase price, you'll need to negotiate, cover the gap, or exit — all covered in the Appraisal Guide.
Home Appraisal Guide